![]() Mrerick has identified the most likely cause of the problem a stuck disconnector pin. And be careful adjusting the rate of speed. ![]() Put something rusted in a coffee can of oil, set it on the vibrator, turn it on for half an hour and walk away. It's just a little square machine that sits there and vibrates at very high rates of speed. One thing I didn't need to use on this pistol, but my niece and her husband needed to get it from me to use on the black powder weapons. I didn't have any markings on the front frame other than the serial number. I'd really like to hear about how you restored your luger.īelow is an example of a 1916 Navy Luger with two crown M stamps. It's a 1973 Colt DA that is too rusted to take apart. I've got an old gun soaking in oil on the back of my garage shelf, too. The photo you showed has a serial number (blurry, but looks like "329") and suffix "m". That luger looks like it was recovered from a sunken ship or submarine. I can't image any of the small parts survived. If you restored that rusted anchor into a working pistol, my hat's off to you! If anyone has any insights as to what my problem could be, I'd love to hear it. I will say that one thing that was missing and had to be replaced was the side plate and trigger assembly. I found a video on line where it SEEMS to guy has the same problem as I do, but I can't be sure. I have to open the action a bit, then close it by hand, shoot and now the next round will chamber, but not fire until the above is repeated. The action cycles and a new round is chambered. As of now, after much effort, work, trial and error, and a fair chuck of change, I have a Luger that fires. Serial number 7237 and according to what markings are left, was issued to the German Navy. Wrapped in a rag was a rusted piece of junk that used to be a 1936 PO8 Luger. ![]() ![]() About six months ago he was up on a shelf he'd never been to before. A friend of mine bought a retirement home on the coast to retire in, about twenty years ago. ![]()
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